Microbiome, Prebiotics, and Probiotics: The New Skincare Trend in the USA

The market for cosmetic products derived from microbiome research is set to see a surge in sales, with prebiotic and probiotic skincare products leading the way

Unilever's Commitment to Skin Microbiome Research

In recent years, increased awareness of the microbiome has become a major trend in the U.S. cosmetic market. This trend is accompanied by an exponential increase in "biotic" products that promise to protect, rebalance, and restore the skin's microflora, targeting face, body, and hair care.

The multinational company Unilever, which boasts beauty brands like Dove, Vaseline, Murad, and Tatcha, has studied the skin microbiome for 15 years. Their goal is to create dermo-cosmetic formulas capable of resetting the balance of the skin's microbiome—the collection of bacteria naturally present on the skin's surface that maintains the efficiency of the skin barrier function, protecting against infections, allergies, and even eczema and acne. The microbiome is part of an individual's unique genetic makeup and varies -not only from person to person but also across different areas of the body. With its suite of skincare brands, Unilever aims to leverage its scientific prowess on the microbiome, (supported by artificial intelligence), to treat skin issues like acne more effectively.

"We can observe a growing familiarity among American consumers approaching microbiome-friendly products, increasingly aware that the microbiome is no longer just a buzzword in the U.S., but rather a path to better understanding their own skin issues," said Dr. Jason Harcup, Head of Research and Development for Unilever's skincare and luxury lines in North America.

Unilever has collaborated with a team of researchers, doctoral candidates, and industrial networks in the U.S. and worldwide to collect over 12,000 microbiome samples in hundreds of clinical studies conducted globally, generating over 12 terabytes of microbiome data. Data collection is crucial, as recent findings suggest that environmental factors and interpersonal relationships can influence an individual's microbiome. The data collection process has been significantly accelerated by the rapid processing capabilities of artificial intelligence, implemented by Unilever in 2021 to sequence and decipher vast amounts of data.

Collecting various geographical samples from India, China, and the United States has allowed for a better understanding of how the skin microbiome functions. Although there is significant interindividual variability, researchers hypothesize the existence of a "core microbiome," a common set of bacteria and related genes that ensures basic trophic activities. This core microbiome, shared across diverse populations, has been the focal point for developing mainstream skincare formulations. Factors that can alter the skin microbiome include pollution, UV radiation, the use of harsh body and hair care products, as well as evolutionary traits, skin conditions, and age. For instance, Unilever researchers have discovered that microbiome measurement can determine whether a woman is in menopause with 80% accuracy.

The multinational company has used an ever-growing body of research to begin to create an entire suite of products for both luxury and mainstream segments. All skincare lines are designed to help strengthen, rebalance, and protect the skin microbiome. For example, Dove's Deep Moisture Body Wash, launched in 2019, has been shown through peer-reviewed studies to disrupt the microbiome less than traditional soaps. This moisturizing body wash, featuring Nutrium Moisture technology with ceramides, helps support the skin barrier and replenish natural lipids, whereas most beauty brands use ceramides in topical formulations. Other Unilever product launches include Vaseline's new Microbiome Care lotion, enriched with prebiotics containing live bacterial cultures to promote positive bacterial balance and stimulate skin-friendly bacteria activity. Similarly, Unilever's Living Proof Dry Scalp Treatment, launched in 2020, functions as both an anti-dandruff and scalp microbiome rebalancing treatment. Within Unilever's luxury line, Tatcha debuted Indigo Skin Repair in 2021, using Japanese indigo and ceramides to restore the skin barrier.

Microbiome Research for Acne Treatment: Unilever's Latest Studies

As research expands globally, Unilever plans to focus increasingly on product lines for acne treatment. "Old paradigms in traditional acne medicine, which blame bad bacteria for the condition, will be overturned," said Dr. Harcup. "Future skincare treatments will target and 'work with' specific microbes to improve skin conditions." Dr. Samantha Samaras, head of beauty and wellness R&D at Unilever, agreed. "The first misconception is that the microbiome is static, with simply 'good' and 'bad' bacteria. In reality, these are incredibly complex living environments," she explained.

Fermented Formulas Loved by Millennials and Gen Z in America

Preventing or managing dermatological issues caused by microbiome imbalance, such as acne, is a hot topic in current beauty trends, particularly among Gen Z and Millennials in America. Certifications like those provided by the Kind to Biome advisory board are proving essential to identify products that do not disrupt the skin barrier and actively incorporate functional prebiotics and probiotics. "Perhaps the biggest myth to debunk today is that probiotics in skincare directly benefit the skin. In most products on the market, this is false, as living organisms in probiotics cannot survive without intelligent packaging solutions to deliver them intact to the skin," stated David Koo Hjalmarsson, co-founder of the Kind to Biome certification standard. Tula, for instance, is an American beauty brand that emphasizes its use of probiotic extracts and superfoods in its skincare treatments. Emerging U.S. brands like Bowe Beauty and Shielded Beauty by Dr. Whitney are placing the microbiome at the center of their product lines.

Unilever researchers are also exploring genetic skin testing kits, similar to U.S.-based 23andMe, that could hit the market to allow American consumers to conduct accurate self-assessments of their skin microbiome. This could mean that, in the future, U.S. customers could approach their trusted skincare brands with precise product needs based on their microbiome and the bacteria present on their skin.

"Microbiome benefits extend beyond the skin, connecting to a broader area of health linking the skin, brain, and gut," said Dr. Samaras. "By investigating this connection, we can go beyond benefits seen in acne management and odor barrier control, reaching more holistic advantages for mood and overall wellness," she added.

The Growing Therapeutic Microbiome Market in the United States

ADM, a global leader in human and animal nutrition, has identified five trends driving the human microbiome category, supported by its proprietary platform, Outside Voice. This platform enables e-commerce giants in America to gather product reviews via WhatsApp:

• Increasing awareness among American consumers about the gut-brain connection and its impact on mood and cognitive functions. A study by FMCG Gurus found that 58% of global consumers are aware of the potential health benefits of digestive bacteria.
• Personalized nutritional solutions, such as ready-to-drink shakes, designed to support specific activities and lifestyles. ADM predicts the microbiome as the new frontier for personalized nutrition.
• Consumers can now use genetic testing kits to analyze their intestinal microbiome, facilitating personalized nutrition. According to FMCG Gurus, 59% of global consumers find genetic testing for nutrition appealing, and 64% are willing to use this technology.
• Clinical studies are debunking myths about probiotics and skin microbiomes, aiding the development of probiotic formulations that support skin health.
• Studies show growing interest in immune health, with 75% of global consumers planning to make greater efforts to stay healthy post-COVID-19.

"There is increasing scientific evidence linking the gut microbiome to key aspects of health and wellness," said Mark Lotsch, Global President of Health & Wellness at ADM. "Nutrition is one of the most effective tools to support a healthy microbiome," he added.